We left the Mt. Everest View lodge and flew back to Lukla to refuel. These helicopters suck a lot of fuel with six passengers and the thin air. Landed in Kathmandu and were whisked back to the hotel. It was hard to believe we had just flown to and walked around Mt. Everest, had eaten a full meal, and flown back to the city and it was only noon. Tenzing would be jealous.
We cleaned up, showered, and then headed out for the rest of our day. Our fabulous guide, Biren, wanted to to take us to a holy site – The Monkey Temple.
This location is yet another temple to Shiva one of the main men in Buddhism. As we drove up, Biren offered us the option to take the “tourist” route of 100 steps, or the route as the temple was built of 365 steps. Of course, we chose the longer route and headed off.

This walk up the steps is littered with monuments along the steps, celebrating people, places, and important things of Buddhism.

There were a great many people, and monkeys, hundreds of monkeys, that just played, begged, and meandered amongst the people. Mutt dogs, with family trees that would match a Neanderthal, were also there. They completely ignored the monkeys, and the monkeys them.



Biren then told us that in the 60’s/70’s the “hippies” of the west discovered Nepal and came in droves. They smoke their hashish and marijuana, played music, and generally did nothing. It was because of all the monkeys there that they began calling it The Monkey Temple, and the name stuck. Later in the day we saw more evidence of those damned hippies in town.
After our walk up, with several stops to rest and get educated, we came to the main temple. Lo and behold, a farmer’s market of kitsch appeared. As revered as these icons of religion are, their followers are not above making a buck or two off them.
We went to the main room of the temple, only to learn that it is an active monastery, as that room doubled as a classroom. Pictures were not allowed.
Our group split up and toured the shops and sights. As we did, I came across a group of monks (what is that called, a muddle, a monkle ?) in their red robes having their pictures taken just like everyone else up there.

I was taken by their symbol of clarity of pure thought leading to enlightenment the Vajra, or Thunderbolt.

Then we were off to see a Kumari. This is interesting. A Kumari is a young, pre-menstrual, girl who is chosen after a thorough process to represent Buddhism in her area. They are generally chosen at about 4-5-6 at their parent’s offering. The area where this Kumari lives, there are nine in Kathmandu, is also where there is an old King’s Palace. Kathmandu used to have a king, but that practice was stopped 10-15 years ago and they have a Prime Minister now.
This gal is the most important Kumari In Kathmandu. Once selected her feet may never touch earth while Kumari. She lives in a temple and has one caretaker who tends to her every need, food, education, etc. For this, her parents will not see her again until the Kumari leaves the temple. A nice stipend to the parents helps with the pain. Her only job is be available for viewings throughout the day for the locals to praise and worship her.
We entered through a small door, behind which this Kumari will spend the next 10-12 years of her life.

We gathered in a square to await her appearance. She appeared on the window with the lightbulb, which flickered to announce he arrival. Pictures were not supposed to be taken but I got one.

Once she becomes a woman she is taken from the temple, a new Kumari is chosen, and the old one can then live a normal life. While other Kumari in town are not supposed to marry, in modern times they now can/do. This Kumari as the most important will not marry.
Outside the palace Biren showed where he was standing when the earthquake of 2015 hit, in which 8-10,000 people died. Biren had a tour group,with him, two American women. They were standing next to the palace and saw part of it and a temple next to it crash down. In the picture, all of the darker building collapsedas did the right portion of the palace next to it. With all the mayhem, dust, screaming, etc. the two in the group made him continue the tour because they “had payed for it”.

Next we walked through “Freak Street”, yes named again for the invasion of the Hippies.this is where they would congratulate, smoke more hashish and buy/sell things.


Following this stop, Biren arranged for us to ride home on rickshaws back to our hotel. As an added treated he directed them to take the route that went down the busiest street in Kathmandu. This was quite the ride as throughout Kathmandu there are NO traffic’s rules for cars, scooters, rickshaws or anything.

As if the ride through narrow roads, people, and scooters wasn’t enough this is the shirt our driver had on, and which we had to watch the whole way.

Once back at the hotel we got dinner at the hotel and collapsed.
What a long, full day. From Mt. Everest to Freak St. Throughout we saw mind boggling sites, interacted with fantastic people, and were educated along the way by our trusted and very capable guide Biren.

Tomorrow Shadi and Nicholas are off to Bhutan and Jeff and I will tour around with Biren in Kathmandu.
Wow wow wow. I feel like I am right there with you David. Your writing is incredible ! I am not sure I could have gotten in that copter …. Yikes. I want to be a Buddhist ??stay safe on your travels back. Sheila
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Thanks. The trip was so fantastic the words came easy. Hope all is well on your end
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